Ready to Wear Saint Laurent is Sculpted, Statement-Focused
Saint Laurent showed its second ready to wear collection by Anthony Vaccarello outside its new headquarters-in-progress, according to WWD.
The collection was full of leather, statement sleeves, and sculpted looks. In the women’s collection, a few outfits combined leather miniskirts with heavy ruffles running vertically up their fronts with loose suede jackets, one a casual pocketed zipper piece, another squarer, with buttons and boxy tailoring. Many looks featured slouch boots, in leathers, vinyl looks, and even velvets.
Then there were pieces like a leather dress with some sleeve statement, one lengthy, indulgent muttonleg style, and the other a detached glove secured above the elbow with a strap, then opening into a fleece-lined wing around the shoulder. A similar piece featured two attached gloves, creating a jacket that hugs the back and fans behind the head and around the shoulders, running into sleeves at the bust.
The leather dresses ran mostly short, focusing on the sculpting of the leather for interest. Despite the somewhat stiff look of those designs, other pieces featured soft, gauzy chiffons, relaxed pleated ruffles falling off shoulders or asymmetrically down skirts, and silky solids with lots of gathering. Velvet and more statement sleeves appeared as well.
Also included were some ultra-warm pieces: oversize sweaters, relaxed trousers and a fur coat; and some straight-shouldered suits, with a smattering of glittery fabrics. Designs continued to make bold statements with simple color schemes, relying on cut and fabric for the second-glance factor. V-neck jumpsuit tailored like a pantsuit was styled with a loose belt and glittery silver boots, and point-toed heels were matched to a sparkle miniskirt and a velvet blazer with satin lapels.
The men’s collection also brought in suede, leather, and leather looks, including jackets comparable to those in the women’s collection. The softer designs included an all-black ensemble with a neatly fitted coat and a furry turtleneck sweater paired with vinyl pants. Crisply tailored suits and some shirts with a little lamé sparkle rounded out the formal side of things.