Inspired by filmmaker David Lynch’s work, Kenzo’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon considered this show to be the third leg in their David Lynch trilogy, with their Pre-fall and Men’s Collection also inspired by his work. Lim and Leon convinced Lynch himself to sign on as a collaborator this season, which made the connections to Lynch’s film much more explicit, especially where the presentation was concerned. Lynch was responsible for the soundtrack of the show, and also the large sculpture of a head with its mouth open in an agonized howl in front of the camera pit.
Lynch’s film aesthetic seeped into the collection as well. Leon has been quoted as saying “There are tools in every one of his movies”. Print and embroidery were some accents the designers used to achieve Lynch’s aesthetic through fashion. The first model came out in what initially looked like a very detailed coat or blazer. When you take a closer look you realize she is wearing a white, black, and gold printed turtleneck, the bottom of the turtleneck then turns into a peplum like style, and the color of the print changes to black green and silver, same print as the top. She pairs her turtleneck with a Kenzo signature clutch, a green chevron print zippered clutch and black slacks and boots. Through their construction and print Lim and Leon redefined the turtleneck with this collection. Prints and embroidery are seen on over coats, pantsuits, and bustier dresses in this collection. Kenzo’s collection had an everything but the kitchen sink way of styling, but this is why the collection can seemingly go from runway to reality. Their ribbed knit separates embroidered with thin strips of bronze and silver, and a long quilted parka in a graphic acid yellow and black pattern, have every day woman appeal which is what makes Kenzo so successful.
MEN’s COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2014/15