Saint Laurent’s Men’s Spring 2019 Show Influenced by 70s New York

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Amid a resurgence of high waists, ruffles, florals, and flare pants in women’s fashion; Yves Saint Laurent had just had their Men’s Spring show earlier this week. The collection, head by creative director Anthony Vaccarello, was presented at Liberty State Park. All attendees were transported across the Hudson River on a ferry, crossing the border from New York to New Jersey. An odd choice perhaps, but certainly with its own set of reasons.

Vaccarello expressed a wish for the setting to be different from that of other shows. According to WWD, the choice was made because “simply put, most of the bigger brands have decamped for Paris.” Obviously, the locale was ever-present within the collection, as Vaccarello has expressed wanting to represent “the idea of New York, the idea of the icons of New York in the 70s.” The designer reportedly used photographs of Yves Saint-Laurent during the time period as inspiration.

Perhaps the overall feel of the collection is best described by Vogue which referred to the collection as being “Studio 54 in verve.” A great number of the models sported long hair and high-waisted pants. The looks consisted of leather jackets, pointed boots, and number of edgy and psychedelic prints. Black – embellished by gold and silver – seemed to be the dominant color of the show. Most notably, these accents could be seen on a bomber jacket and a number of blazer; giving the otherwise understated and simple collection an ornate flair.

The entire theme was supposedly modeled on an event the brand hosted forty years ago; the launch of Yves Saint-Laurent’s Opium fragrance. Held on a boat docked at New York’s South Street Seaport, legend has it that this party was bedecked its own giant Buddha and Hawaiian orchids, explaining some of the peeks of luxury present in the metallic accents. Guests this time round were invited to an after party on another boat, where they were served caviar and champagne.

The most memorable moment of the night was probably the finale, when models promenaded down the catwalk bare-chested and covered in metallic silver paint. This stunt, which seems rather bohemian is spirit, seems like a fitting end to the glitzy, 70s inspired show.

As Vaccarello puts it, this was a “different interpretation of evening couture, for men, without having volume.” We’ve already begun to see some of this in women’s fashion, it might be about time that we raise men’s trends to a similar standard of retro glamour. As this is Vaccarello’s second year as the brand’s creative director, it should be very exciting to see what other directions the brand will go.

Featured Image via Wikimedia Commons

Proud Latina Feminist. My likes include strong coffee, watching the previews that come on before the movie, and things that come in pretty packages. I've been a bibliophile and fashion lover since well before I could read or tie my own shoes.

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