The ability to identify chemicals and products by acronyms is a genuine measure of excellence for people passionate about skincare. Powerhouse goods range from protecting the skin from damaging UV rays with SPF to improving moisture with a hyaluronic acid serum (HA). Enthusiasts frequently explore these options. Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) are mainstays among them. But polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are another three-letter superstar in the acid family that is becoming increasingly well-known. Dermatologists share their understanding of PHAs and their advantages in this search for skincare knowledge.
Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs): What are they?
PHAs act as mild exfoliants, revealing smoother, brighter, and cleaner skin, just like AHAs and BHAs do. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Madeleine Gantz says that PHAs provide mild exfoliation by dissolving the connections that hold old skin cells together. PHAs are notable for their humectant qualities, which help the skin stay hydrated by holding onto water. They also serve as antioxidants, preventing the deterioration of collagen and shielding the skin from free radical damage. PHAs treat texture and uneven tone at the surface, acting at a deeper level than AHAs and BHAs.
Advantages of PHAs: Another dermatologist with board certification, Dr. Heidi Prather, highlights that PHAs improve the skin barrier and offer moisturizing qualities in addition to exfoliating. PHAs may be classified into five main categories: zinc gluconate, gluconolactone, lactobionic, maltogenic, and gluconic acid. According to Dr. Prather, substances with antioxidant properties include lactobionic acid and gluconolactone. Because of their versatility, PHAs may be used on every skin type and are safe for acne, brightening, and anti-aging therapies without exacerbating existing skin conditions.
Dissimilarities and Similarities Between AHAs and BHAs: PHAs and AHAs are both water-soluble exfoliants that have the same positive effects on texture, pigmentation, and brightness. Dr. Prather does point out that because PHAs have more giant molecules than AHAs, they do not penetrate as deeply and are, therefore, less likely to cause discomfort. PHAs distinguish themselves from other hydroxy acids by having humectant qualities that increase moisture and reduce irritation, even though hydroxy acids improve product absorption, cure acne, and brighten skin.
Perfect Candidates for PHAs: People looking to enhance skin tone and texture can benefit from PHAs because of their decreased propensity to irritate. On the other hand, people who have active skin irritation should takeuse care.
Who Should Avoid PHAs? If skin irritation is present, Dr. Gantz advises delaying the use of PHAs. The selection of an exfoliant is contingent upon the unique skin types and issues. Although salicylic acid has the potential to irritate, it can also have deeper penetration and enhanced exfoliation, making it a better option for people with oily and acne-prone skin.
Use Frequency: Gradual application is essential, just like other powerful skincare components. Dr. Gantz suggests starting three evenings a week and modifying according to skin reactions. It’s essential to pay attention to your skin and not overdo things.
Retinol Compatibility: According to Dr. Gantz, PHAs can be used with retinol if the skin can handle them. PHAs’ more giant molecules enhance retinol’s benefits without making irritation worse. Dr. Prather continues, “When combined with retinol, PHAs—which are high in antioxidants—help preserve collagen and aid in epidermal repair.”
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